Linseed oil paint is forgiving to apply, but like any finish it lasts longest on a surface that has been prepared properly. Allbäck sums it up in one line: scrape to a solid surface, clean, oil, and finish painting. Here is what each of those steps involves.
1. Check conditions and moisture
Timber should be dry — no more than 14% moisture content — and the air at least 14 °C when you paint. After rain, give exterior timber a few dry days. Indoors, run a dehumidifier if the air is damp. Painting over wet timber traps moisture and slows drying.
2. Remove anything loose
Scrape off flaking and blistered paint until you reach paint that is firmly bonded, or bare timber. You do not have to strip everything: sound old oil-based paint is a good base. Feather the edges so the old layers do not show through.
On houses built before 1970, assume there is lead in the older layers. Do not dry-sand, grind or burn it off. Read removing old paint safely and how to strip paint from timber before you start.
3. Wash the surface
Dirt, grease, pollen and mould all stop new paint from bonding. Wash with Allbäck linseed soap — about 100 ml in a bucket of water — scrub, rinse with clean water and let the timber dry completely. Where there is mildew, as is common on shaded or coastal walls in Australia, use Linseed Soap Extra and give it time to soak in before scrubbing. Avoid high-pH cleaners and high-pressure washers; both can damage timber and affect how the paint behaves.
4. Repair the timber
- Cut out rot and splice in new timber of the same species where possible.
- Fill small holes and dry cracks with linseed oil putty, which can be painted straight away and does not shrink.
- For cracked rebates and open joints, thin the putty with a few drops of raw linseed oil, brush it in and wipe off the excess.
- Indoors, for a smooth finish on painted joinery, a filler of Allbäck Primer mixed with chalk can be brushed on, dried and sanded.
5. Oil dry, bare timber
Bare, weathered exterior timber is thirsty. Before painting, brush on raw linseed oil and let it soak in fully — warm oil, or timber warmed by the sun, penetrates faster. Wipe off anything that has not been absorbed. This stops the first coat being drawn into the wood and helps it dry evenly. On previously painted timber, use boiled linseed oil instead. More detail in raw vs boiled linseed oil.
6. Seal knots
Resin in knots can bleed through light colours. Brush pure shellac over knots before painting. On windows, shellac also goes into the glazing rebates to protect the putty.
7. Check what is already there
- Bare timber or old oil paint: ideal.
- Modern acrylic: paint a test patch; if it does not hold, strip back to a sound surface.
- Varnished or lacquered timber: sand back to a dull, absorbent surface or strip.
- Metal: linseed oil paint also works on clean, dry sheet metal and iron at 14 °C or warmer.
Never use acrylic primers, petroleum products or solvents under or in linseed oil paint — they are not compatible.
8. Have the right tools ready
A stiff natural-bristle brush lets you work the paint into the timber and out into thin coats. Have a look at our brushes and tools. Then you are ready to paint — work out quantities with how much linseed oil paint do I need?
Common questions
Do I need to sand between coats?
Not normally. If a coat has wrinkled from being too thick, wet-sand it with Allbäck Primer before the next one.
Can I paint new treated pine?
Let it dry out until the moisture content is below 14%, wash off any surface residue, and paint a test patch first.
Not sure what your surface needs?
Ask us — tell us what the timber is and what was on it before.